Outer Banks Surf Update 2.6.10

The Outer Banks is well-known for its gorgeous beach environment and pumping surf, arguably some of the best and most consistent surf the east coast has to offer (here’s a slide show to back up this point of view).  However, for most people the beach and waves are generally enjoyed during warm, sunny days.

From a surfer’s perspective, gnarly conditions can be a welcomed sight.  Storm surf is usually not conducive to surfing, but large storms generally throw some decent surf towards the OBX before and/or after the storm’s arrival.  Gnarly conditions also tend to thin the surfing crowd; only the most dedicated are willing to brave the most brutal conditions.  When it comes to winter on the Outer Banks, it’s difficult to create more brutal surfing conditions.

During the winter months, large storms combine with bone-chilling water temperatures (in the low 30’s right now) to make even the most weathered and dedicated OBX surfers think twice before wrestling the thick rubber wetsuit, boots, gloves, and hood around a shivering body and hustling towards the Atlantic.  Even with the protective gear, the entrance into the icy liquid is mind-numbing and each duck dive brings the ice-cream headache rushing back.  The body is cold from the rude entrance into the seemingly peaceful beach environment and stiff from the weeks without a paddle.  Muscles needed to propel you through the crushing onslaught of waves seem to be thinking of the warm safety of the car.  A paddle out into OBX surf is hard enough on an 80 degree day in boardshorts, but in the heart of the cold season, covered in thick rubber reducing all movement and vision, it seems nearly impossible.  Luckily, the payoff is great.

When you make it outside and can sit to catch your breath and relax the burning muscles, you have the opportunity to look back at the beach and take it all in; the peace and tranquility returns in a flash; bright Carolina blue skies, empty beach, gorgeous waves, low flying sea birds, and silence…just the hum and crash of passing waves.

This winter, like many, seems flat and cold.  From a surfer’s perspective there are never enough waves.  In reality, the chilly east coast winter has brought some great days…albeit few and far between and cold!  Surfer Magazine recently had some great online coverage of the winter surf on the Outer Banks.

Local pro, Noah Snyder, and Drew Meredith are featured on SurferMag.com taming some of Hatteras’ “caverns” with some great videos from inside the barrel.   The video is titled “How to Ride an Outer Banks Barrel,” and it offers an amazing perspective of the surfers catching the wave and ducking for cover as the barrel closes around them.

In addition, local surf photographer and surf enthusiast, Matt Lusk, has a great slide show displaying the Outer Banks during the winter featured on SurferMag.com.

However, the big surf news from the OBX is Brett Barley.

Brett is a wave-hunting 20 year old surfer from Buxton that made a huge impression on the surfing world over the past couple weeks.  Brett made his first appearance at the Volcom Pipeline Pro in January, and he made a name for himself early.  Brett scored a 10 and 9.67 in his first heat and made it to the semi-finals.  He arrived a relatively unknown from the remote Outer Banks and left as the “Cinderella Story” of one of the biggest surf competitions at one of the biggest surf spots of all time.  The entire competition seemed to be buzzing about Brett.  Another great example of the high-quality surf offered on the Outer Banks.

Rather than try to recap the amazing press that Brett has been receiving, here’s a quick list (with links) of some of it:

ESM – So Cool “Pruett… thats an odd way to start an article haha”

Spectaculare Advenuters  - Carolina On His Back

Surfline – Jamie O’brien Wins (slides 13, 14, 15)

TWSurf – Jamie O’ Wins The Volcom Pipeline Pro (Scroll down)

Surfer Mag – 2010 Volcom Pipeline Pro

Surfline – Pipe Locals, Aussie Chargers, and Brett Barley Advance

ASP World Tour – Brett Barley Back in Spotlight at Volcom Pipe Pro

ESPN – Barley, just Bearly

IslandFreePress – Hometown boy captures the attention of the surfing world in Hawaii event

SurfersVillage – Who da kid? Buxton’s Brett Barley Stuns Volcom Pro

Outside Online – The Cinderella Story of the Pipeline Pro